are in the mood for fine German wine and food, you should consider the Franconia region of southeastern Germany. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Silvaner white wine. I’ll let you in on a secret. A year and a half ago I reviewed a previous vintage of this wine. I liked it so much that I wanted to review it again. The rest of the article hasn’t changed much but the review was completely rewritten from scratch. Let’s see what a difference two years makes.

Franconia is bordered on the north by the Main River and by the Danube on the south. It is named for a Germanic tribe known as the Franks, who also gave their name to France. After centuries of independence, the Congress of Vienna in 1814-1815 made Franconia part of Bavaria in southern Germany.

Of the thirteen German wine regions, Franconia ranks number six in both acreage and total wine production. Unlike many other German wine regions, here the Riesling grape is not a major player. More than 85% of Franconian wine is white. The main grape varieties are Mueller-Thurgau, a German hybrid, that makes up almost half the local production of white wine and Silvaner, a grape also grown elsewhere in Germany, and in Austria, Switzerland, and Alsace, France. Many experts feel that the best Silvaner wines are grown in Franconia. About 40% of the region’s wine is middle-quality QbA wine, and almost 60% is the higher quality QmP wine. Only about 0.5% of Franconian wine is table wine.

Do you like seeing the past? The Middle Ages trade route known as the Romantic Road with its castles and medieval churches, towns, and villages passes through Franconia. The city of Wuerzburg forms the northernmost point of the Romantic Road. It is a medieval town jam packed with sites dating back several hundred years. For example, make sure to see the Alte Mainbruecke (Old Main Bridge), the Dom St. Kilian a Romanesque cathedral, Festung Marienberg (Marienberg Fortress) with the Marienkirche (Church of the Virgin Mary, this one dates back to approximately the year 700), the Mainfraenkisches Museum (Main-Franconian Museum), and the Residenz where the local prince-bishops lived. You may also want to see the Buergerspital (Almshouse) associated with the wine that we review below.

Before reviewing the Franconian wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start off with a Frankische Bratwurst (Franconian Roasted Sausage). For your second course enjoy Schuefela (Pork Shoulder with Potato Dumpling). As a dessert indulge yourself with ApfelStruedel (Apple Strudel).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Buergerspital Wuerzburg Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2004 10.6% alcohol about $16.50

We’ll start by quoting the marketing materials. The Franken region wines are unique for two reasons. First, their principal grape is Silvaner; and second, they use an unusual bottle known as the bocksbeutel (similar in shape to the Mateus Rose vessel). In Franken, Silvaner achieves its finest expression. The aromas are full of floral, pear, apple, and mineral notes. Medium to full-bodied, its racy acidity gives it tremendous verve. Pair with freshwater fish. And now for my review. (By the way, I did this review without noting my comments in the previous review.)

I started by sipping this wine. It was somewhat ethereal, mineral, and refreshingly acidic. The first meal involved fried chicken breast (hot off the skillet) and delicatessen bought potato pancakes. This wine was palate cleansing and appely. Some slices of fresh red pepper seemed to denature the wine while giving it a touch of lemon.

Then I went to a chicken thigh casserole cooked with sliced potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions in a spicy tomato sauce. The acidity cut the grease and the wine was appley and moderately long.

I then went to an Italian sausage pizza (not home made). The Silvaner was refreshing and nicely acidic. It balanced the spices well. As I kept drinking an apple taste developed. A week later I bought a Pepperoni pizza. The wine seemed more powerful than previously. It was palate cleansing, really cutting the grease.

And now for the cheeses. First I tried a genuine Italian Mozzarella de Bufala (water buffalo Mozzarella). While this wine was round and acidic, the cheese was able to chop it down somewhat. I guess you just don’t mess with water buffalo. The final cheese was a French Morbier made in two layers, once upon a time a morning milk layer and an evening milk layer. Frankly, I’m not enough of a cheese lover to tell the difference. Anyway this cheese was really starting to smell. It was able to gut the wine, however, it wasn’t bad on its own.

Final verdict. I bought this wine twice and have yet to go a second round with many other wines that I liked as well. Part of the reason that I repeated this tasting was my surprise that a Silvaner could be so good. I am not planning to go a third round but am planning to taste another Silvaner, albeit in a more modest price range.

the terrible Artic temperatures in our part of the world, I figured why not review a well-known rose wine from the Rhone Valley region of southeastern France. This beautiful area ranks second in acreage of France’s eleven wine-growing regions. The region runs some 200 kilometers (125) miles along the Rhone River. The northern part is really narrow. Its major white variety is Viognier and major red grape variety is Syrah. This area produces some of the best red wines in all France, and if you ask partisans some of the world’s best red wines. But the north produces only about 5% of the total Rhone Valley production. Wine in the southern Rhone Valley tends to be blended. For example, the wine reviewed below comes from three different grapes.

Tavel is a village of about 1500 people located near some great vineyards, not far from the cities of Avignon and Nimes, and an hour’s drive from the Mediterranean. But you don’t have to leave the village for interesting sights. Sights in the old town center include a Tenth Century Chapel (Saint-Ferreol), the village church and fountain, and the Chemin de la Condamine. There’s a vineyard route and you’re not far from the largest sundial in Europe. Just a bit of wine trivia; Tavel is the one French wine appellation that’s allowed to make only rose wine.

Before reviewing the Cotes du Rhone rose wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Soupe aux Truffes Noires (Black Truffle Soup). For your second course savor Foie de Veau a la Lyonnaise (Veal Liver and Onions). And as dessert indulge yourself with Tarte aux Pralines (Praline Tart).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Perrin & Fils Tavel Rose 2006 14% about $16.50

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tavel produces some of the richest, yet driest roses on the market. They work beautifully as a sipper and are quite adaptable to a variety of foods such as grilled chicken, sea-food salads, bouillabaisse or pork tenderloin. The Perrin 2006 vintage is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Cinsault. And now for our review.

My first meal was centered on a middle-eastern dish known as kube, slow cooked ground meat placed in crushed bulgar jackets. This is rose. It was a great blend of acidity with a touch of sweetness. The wine lingered. It sort of bounced off the peppery sauce. When sipped on its own the Tavel was feathery. I felt it was something of an introduction to ambrosia.

My next meal involved a slow-cooked chicken leg with the skin on with a sauce made from soy sauce, garlic, cumin, and onion. The chicken was accompanied by potato patties. The wine was fruity with good acidity. It was light and yet oh so present. For dessert I had a French chocolate pie with a great flaky (lots of butter) crust. The rose managed to hold its own against the somewhat excessive sugar.

The final meal was an omelet perked up by anchovies and capers. The wine was long and fruity, undisturbed by the excessive salt. It became subtler when facing a fresh, acidic tomato.

The first cheese was an Emmenthaler (Swiss). The wine remained round and forceful, but something was lost. The second cheese was a rather gamy goat’s milk cheese from Poitou in central-western France. The cheese cut the wine.

Final verdict. Tavel is known as a fine rose wine. I was not the least bit disappointed. I’ll be pleased to buy it again. But if I’m not doing a review, I won’t bother trying it with any old available cheese.

are in the market for fine French wine and food, why don’t you consider the up and coming wine region of southwestern France? You may even find a bargain. I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local red wine based on the indigenous Negrette and the international Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions the South-west ranks sixth in acreage. Surprisingly enough this is the first wine that we have reviewed from this region. The most famous alcoholic beverage produced in this beautiful region is Armagnac that many prefer to Cognac. Parts of this region neighbor Bordeaux so don’t be surprised that some of the local wines are quite good, and yet more moderately priced than many of its world-famous neighbor’s offerings.

If you are visiting southwestern France, and you really should, make sure to stop by the village of Bergerac that was not the home of the famous Cyrano de Bergerac who actually lived in Paris in the first half of the Seventeenth Century. The town is beautiful. Market days are Wednesday and Saturday. You can take a guided walking tour of the old city and cruise the Dordogne River from Easter to October. The Cloitre des Recollets was a convent and now hosts a wine business. Go a few miles south to the Chateau de Monbazillac. Their sweet wine is famous but fairly expensive.

Before reviewing the southwestern wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Foie Gras Frais avec Myrtille (Fresh Duck Liver in a Berry Sauce). For your second course savor Piperade Basquaise au Jambon (Eggs, Tomatos, Green Peppers, Onions, and Ham). And for dessert indulge yourself with Gateau Basque (Lemon Shortbread, Baker’s Cream, and Tart Cherry Jam.)

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed La Foret Royale 2004 13% about $13.50 (Appelation Fronton Controle)

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. La Foret is a blend of the indigenous Negrette (45%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), and Syrah (25%). The wine goes through fruit-enhancing and tannin-mellowing micro-oxygenation and acid-softening malolactic fermentation. The resulting wine is full of flavors and aromas, including raspberry, blackberry, cassis, dark chocolate, licorice, and a hint of tar. Serve it with grilled steaks, backribs, or gourmet sausages. And now for the review.

My first meal consisted of commercially prepared beef spare ribs, spicy Moroccan carrots, and potatoes roasted in chicken fat. The meat was seasoned with Tunisian Harissa, a very spicy hot-pepper sauce. This was a great combination. The tannins melted in my mouth. I tasted black cherries, chocolate, and a lot of tobacco. The wine was robust and mouth filling. It held up both to the fat and the strong spices.

The next meal included meatballs with harissa, rice, and green beans. This wine was round and moderately long. The chocolate and tobacco tastes were fairly powerful.

The final meal was a commercially prepared barbecued chicken with a paprika-covered shin and store bought potato salad. The wine was a good antidote to the fat. Once again the chocolate taste was predominant.

The first cheese pairing was with an Emmenthaler (Swiss Cheese). The wine handled the pairing nicely. It was quite round and strong. On the other hand I barely tasted the cheese. And a goat’s milk cheese really denatured this wine.

Final verdict. This wine is a winner. I expect to come back to southwestern France for more wines.

If you are in the market for fine French wine and food, why don’t you consider the world famous Provence region in southeastern France? Perhaps you will find a bargain wine in this sun-drenched ideal tourist location, which is marred only by the number of tourists. I hope that you’ll enjoy yourself on this fact-filled wine education tour of this French candidate for paradise in which we review a local red wine based on the red Mourvedre grape.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions Provence ranks ninth in acreage if you include the island of Corsica, which most people do in spite of their considerable differences. Provence is synonymous with rose wine, and although its percentage is declining, happily according to many wine lovers. Over 50% of Provence wine is rose, or as some might say, pink. Many of its wines are pink and flabby, but others are not. The region is home to dozens of grape varieties, often not found elsewhere. With an average of three thousand hours of sun a year, it is no surprise that many Provence wines taste baked.

One secret to making fine tasting wine is limiting its production. The Bandol AOC reviewed below and its high-quality neighbors are capped by law at 180 cases per acre (40 hectoliters per hectare). In this area growers could double their production, almost without trying. But any gains in quantity would be lost in quality. Voila. Limiting Corsica’s wine output has helped reduce Europe’s famous, or rather infamous, wine lake.

While Provence has many great places to visit, let’s start by honoring this wine’s home town, Bandol, population eight thousand. It’s right on the coast, about thirty five miles (fifty five kilometers) southeast of Marseille and has become quite a tourist attraction. Bandol’s port has a capacity of fifteen hundred sailing vessels which means many, many yachts. It is quite a center for scuba diving and deep-sea fishing. In high season unless you love crowds you are better off visiting the vineyards right outside town.

For a change of pace head about four miles (six kilometers) north of Bandol to La Cadiere d’Azur, a medieval village of some three thousand perched on a hilltop overlooking the vineyards. Vincent Van Gogh was here. When you see it you’ll know why.

Before we reviewing the Bandol wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Caviar d’Aubergines (Egglant Puree). For your second course savor Poisson aux Herbes de Provence (Fish with Provence Herbs). And as dessert indulge yourself with Tarte aux Noix (Walnut and Honey Tart).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Domaine Le Galantin Bandol Rouge 2005 14.0% about $20.00

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Description Bandol, the most serious wine of Provence, [is] typically a deep-flavoured, lush red blend dominated by the Mourvedre grape. Tasting Note (Jancis Robinson, Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd Edition, 2006) This version is mostly Mourvedre with a touch of Grenache for balance. Its lovely collection of aromas include cherry, anise, marzipan, and garrigue. And now for my review.

Before the first meal I sipped some of this wine. It was dark, fruity, powerful, and long. You know that the wine is present. The first meal was delicatessen-made thin strips of beef with sliced vegetables. I added rice and a Thai hot sauce. The wine remained long and strong with dark chocolate. I have the distinct impression that this Bandol could hold up to anything. I am getting an image: people sitting around a campfire devouring raw or scarcely cooked bear meat – I have no idea what bear meat tastes like but I know this Bandol could handle it. This is not a wine for watercress sandwiches – with or without the crusts. I liked the wine with a cocoa strudel. The chocolate of the wine accompanied the “chocolate” of the cake. There was, however, a discordant note that I will discuss shortly.

The second tasting involved broiled beef ribs accompanied by jerk sauce, barbecued red skin potatoes, and commercial grilled eggplant. The wine was thick and mouthfilling, but there was something about its acidity that was not quite right, let’s not mince words; it was unpleasant. This also happened with the first meal. It may be hard to believe but swirling the glass vigorously removed this secondary defect. In the present series of reviews covering more than sixty wines this is the first time that I have encountered such a problem.

The final meal consisted of a pan-fried lamb chop that had been marinated in olive oil, garlic, and sliced red onion plus an artichoke, garlic, and tomato salsa and corn on the cob. The wine was full and long brimming with chocolate and to a lesser extent tobacco. The defect is long gone and the wine was excellent. As strong as it was the Bandol accompanied rather than overpowered the subtle meat. Jancis Robinson was right, who am I to doubt her? I tasted garrigue, which are Mediterranean spices.

The first cheese pairing was with a mild-tasting Italian Pecorino Fruilano, which somehow cut across the wine. Frankly I was surprised that such a weak cheese could denature such a strong wine. The Bandol retained its taste when paired with the more flavorful Dutch Edam. I tasted deep chocolate.

Final verdict. This wine is a winner. I must confess that I am somewhat baffled by the problem with the defect. But I am very, very willing to take the chance on it again. Just between you and me, I won’t waste it on cheese pairings.

If you are looking for fine French wine and food, consider the world famous Burgundy region in eastern France. Although it’s fairly rare, you may even find a bargain. I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a Chardonnay white wine coming from old vines (vieilles vignes) in the Chablis district of northern Burgundy.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions Burgundy ranks fourth in acreage when you include the Beaujolais region. Most people do so despite their considerable differences. Partisans, and they are many, claim that Burgundy is really the number one or number two wine-producing region in France, if not in the world. The wine reviewed below comes from the Chablis district of northern Burgundy that is physically closer to Champagne than to the rest of Burgundy. Chablis is known for its white wines, but some red is produced, especially from a local grape known as Cesar. If I can get my hands on some, I’ll be glad to give it a shot. Until then I’ll have to be satisfied with Burgundy whites.

Chablis is not only a style of wine known around the world. It’s also a village of fewer than three thousand in a district of the same name. You can enjoy some old houses, the Serein River, and the Length-Depaquit Castle but its main attractions are the vineyards and the wine shops.

The smaller single-street village of Vezelay was a major pilgrimage site during the Eleventh and Twelfth Centuries. The medieval Basilique Ste-Madeleine (Saint Madelene’s Basilica) is really worth seeing for its Romanesque architecture. The grounds are also beautiful. In fact the complex is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The same guy who restored the basilica also restored the Cathedral of Amiens and Notre-Dame in Paris.

Before reviewing the Burgundy wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and local imported food stores, here are some suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Escargots de Bourgogne (Snails in Parsley Butter). For your second course savor Fondue Bourguignonne (Beef Fondue). And as dessert indulge yourself with Poires pochees au vin de Bourgogne (Pears poached in Burgundy Wine).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed La Chablisienne Chablis Les Vieilles Vignes 2003 12.6% about $24.00

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Steely Intensity. Vieilles Vignes, or Old Vines, yield less fruit but the quality is much higher than that of younger vines. This intense Chardonnay is consistently excellent with green apple, lemon, and loads of mineral characteristics. It’s dry and steely with a long, crisp finish. Serve it with lemon chicken or oysters on the half shell. And now for the review.

My first wine pairing was with a meatless quiche which included sesame seeds, broccoli, mushrooms, red and green peppers, and non-imported cheese. The wine is crisply acidic. I really tasted the lime. This wine was imbued with that Chablis taste of flint. And yet the wine and food weren’t a particularly good match. Things worked out marginally better with a tomato, cucumber, red onion, and parsley salad.

The next meal involved a baked salmon filet that marinated for 24 hours in a sesame seed, honey, garlic, soya, and black pepper sauce. The sides were mashed potatoes in bouillon and zucchini in tomato sauce. This combination worked excellently. The wine was lemony and powerful. It was palate cleansing and tasted steely and flinty. I sort of ruined things with dessert, fruit-juice candy that flattened the wine a bit. Honestly, in all my readings and discussions, I have never come across the pairing of fruit-juice candy and Burgundy wine. As per my policy, I don’t blame the wine for weird food pairings that don’t fly.

The final meal consisted of breaded, fried chicken cutlets, potato patties, and caponata, a thick Italian-style commercial eggplant salad including tomatoes and olives. The wine was very refreshing with plenty of lime and acidity, strong and yet subtle. This combination was classic. The wine emerged slightly different with each of the meal’s components. Believe or not, it became ethereal when paired with the same fruit-juice candy tasted above.

The first cheese pairing was with an Emmenthaler (Swiss style) cheese that came from Germany. Even though the cheese was quite mild, it flattened the wine which no longer came out so nicely acidic. I then tried this Chardonnay with goat cheese from the Poitou-Charentes region of central western France. Even though the cheese generated some ammonia, the pairing was interesting; the wine was round and a bit thick.

Final verdict. Burgundy wines come with expectations, even more so when they are labeled Old Vines. This is not a wine for daily consumption, not for me anyway. But the salmon filet pairing showed the heights that it can reach when properly paired. I would buy it again but watch carefully the accompanying food. And regret, as so often, that it isn’t considerably less expensive.

If you are looking for fine French wine and food, consider the Loire Valley region of central France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a white Chenin Blanc from Anjou-Saumur Touraine in the central part of the region.

Among France’s eleven wine-growing regions the Loire Valley is third in the acreage devoted to vineyards. The Loire is France’s longest river running for 620 miles (one thousand kilometers) across the center of the country. In many ways the Loire Valley can be considered as a series of regions. Here they are running from west to east: Nantais whose number one grape is the white Muscadet, Anjou-Saumur whose primary grapes are the white Chenin Blanc and the red Cabernet Franc, Touraine whose major white grapes are Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Cabernet Franc, and Central Vineyards whose primary white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and whose primary red grape is Pinot Noir. We will review at least one wine from each of these four areas.

Saumur is a city of about thirty-five thousand inhabitants where the Loire and the Thouet Rivers meet in the Anjou and Saumur zone of the Loire Valley, east of the Nantes and west of Tours. It is a bourgeois city quite proud of its historic center and Fourteenth Century Church of St-Pierre as well as the city square of the same name. And of course there is a Loire Valley turreted Castle, the Ch?au de Saumur well worth the visit even though the Musee des Arts Decoratifs (Decorative Arts Museum) and the Musee du Cheval (Equestrian Museum) may be closed to the public.

Saumur’s Riding School, the Cadre Noir de Saumur (literally the Black Cadre) was founded well over one hundred fifty years ago. Its instructors, whether military or civilian, wear beautiful black and gold uniforms in public performances that attract up to forty thousand spectators. If you are at all interested in equestrian performances make sure to catch their class act. And stop by the Maison du Vin (House of Wine) for more information on this great wine-growing region.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Rillions (Big chunks of Pork cooked in Pork Fat). For your second course savor Becasse fouree au Foie Gras (Woodcock stuffed with Foie Gras). And as dessert indulge yourself with Tarte Tatin (Upside down Apple Tart).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines reviewed here have been purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Domaine de Saint-Just Saumur Blanc 2005 AC 12.5% alcohol about $13

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. We see very little white Saumur in our market, so this is a rare treat indeed. Made with 100% Chenin Blanc, it shows the aromatic virtues of the grape coupled with racy acidity. The result is a wine that may be enjoyed in its youth with seafood dishes such as grilled prawns, but will definitely age gracefully for 3-5 years.

My first meal included fried chicken-breast scaloppini, with rice and Turkish salad. This wine was very refreshing and pleasantly acidic. It was palate-cleansing with a lot of lime. It was quite present in the face of a strong Turkish salad.

The next meal consisted of slow-cooked chicken legs with a mix of Eastern spices, brown rice, and green beans. The Saumur Blanc was quite forward with plenty of fruit and acidity. It was very pleasant.

The final pairing involved whole-wheat spaghetti and hamburgers but no tomato sauce. The wine was refreshingly acidic with a lot of lime. It was very long. While the wine was somewhat flattened by a fruit-juice candy, it displayed delicate fruit and acidity when paired with a good-quality cheesecake.

The first cheese pairing was with a mild Italian Pecorino Friulano cheese. This was no success; the wine became a bit thin and lost a lot of its fruit. Then I tried a nutty Dutch Edam cheese. The wine was moderately fruity and that combination was OK but not great.

Final verdict. I liked this wine and would definitely buy it again. I feel that it was quite good for the price. And I can’t find much more to say about it.

are looking for fine French wine and food, you should consider the Loire Valley region of central France. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a white Sancerre wine based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape coming from the eastern part of the Loire Valley.

The Loire is France’s longest river. Among eleven France’s wine-growing regions the Loire Valley number three in total vineyard acreage. This region is subdivided into four sections going from west to east: Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and Central Vineyards, the home of the wine that’s reviewed below. This region’s major white grape is Sauvignon Blanc and major red grape is Pinot Noir.

Bourges is a town of over seventy thousand people that’s almost in the center of France. It’s an old style market town with a high and mighty Cathedral, the Thirteenth Century Cathedrale St-Etienne that is really something to see. It is a World Heritage Site. Make sure not to miss the Fifteenth Century Palais Jacques-Coeur (Palace) that was used as a model for several New York City Fifth Avenue mansions. For natural beauty visit the marshes of the Voiselle and Yevre rivers.

Before reviewing the Loire wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Salade de Faisan (Pheasant Salad). For your second course savor Noisette de Biche (Deer Medallions). And as dessert indulge yourself with Poire Rotie au Beurre (Pear Roasted in Butter).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Marnier-LaPostolle Chateau de Sancerre 2003 12.5% alcohol about $19

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Straw yellow color; grapefruit and mineral notes on the note; clean and refreshing citrus/grapefruit and herbal flavors. Serving Suggestion: Shellfish; goat’s cheese dishes; veggie dishes. And now for my review.

My first meal consisted of poached salmon-colored trout in red pepper (the vegetable, not the spice) sauce with boiled rice. The wine tasted like a Chablis, full of lemon and steel with some herbal notes. When I tried it with a salad composed of Clementines, baby spinach, pear, and mango accompanied by a sweet mustard dressing the Sancerre became more acidic while retaining its flintiness. It took on floral aspects when faced with home-made (my grapes, someone else’s) jelly.

The second meal was a purchased organic spinach pizza. The wine was floral, round, and even a bit sweet. It was quite pleasant. With an apple-rhubarb tart the Sancerre was nicely acidic and feathery.

The third pairing involved a lightly sauteed chicken breast, boiled rice, and a spicy tomato-based Turkish salad. It was round, light, and quite long. Then I added a Tunisian hot pepper sauce (harissa) to the bland meat. Interestingly enough the Sancerre became fruitier and somewhat shorter.

Usually I finish the bottle with two cheese. In this case I went to a cheese-less lasagna made with whole wheat noodles, tomato sauce, peas, and ground chicken. The wine was very fruity and quite round. Its refreshing acidity did a fine job of cutting the grease.

One of the classic wine and cheese pairings taught in schools and verified in practice is Sancerre and goat’s milk cheese, preferably Crottin de Chavignol coming from the same area as the wine.

Final verdict. This is a fine wine. I really like Sancerre but find it somewhat overpriced. I am always ready to try another Sancerre, looking for better value.

rue; I really do love wine and food from Italy, France, Germany, and other countries as well. And who among us can reject a bargain? But I also hate wine and oh so many aspects of the wine scene. Let me explain my top ten reasons for this love-hate relationship. My previous articles discussed the unconscionable expense, the embarrassing lack of knowledge, no wine cellar, I can’t get the … bottle opened, insomnia, food problems, and wine snobs. This article discusses the smells and tastes of wine.

After more than two years of fairly intensive wine tasting both in and out of the classroom, I now proudly can detect more than just a floral nose when facing a white wine. And I no longer am limited to describing a red wine as fruity. I can taste the earth in a Pinot Noir, especially when I know that it’s a Pinot Noir. And even more so when my glass is dirty. When it comes to tasting wine, you have possibly heard that there are no right answers. Like hell there are no right answers, often I just can’t seem to find them. Nobody in their right mind would want to drink something that smells like gasoline, or would they? Yes, I know about Rieslings. At each and every wine tasting I almost hope that I’ll be served a white wine smelling of gasoline. I’ll be able to identify it as such right off the bat. What about cat pee? Who would ever want to drink such a concoction? And yet some Sauvignon Blancs…

I just got a great idea for a new grape variety; let’s create an offspring of these two stalwarts. We’ll introduce Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc to each other, get them a private dining room in a top of the line restaurant, and nine months or more likely several years later we will have a wine that combines the gustatory qualities of gasoline and cat pee. With my luck the ultimate result of such a rendez-vous would probably be, floral.

On the other hand, let’s look on the positive side. I never liked green pepper in my wine. Lo and behold, most wine reviewers and wine lovers seem to share my feelings. So there still is hope. Here are the other reasons that I hate wine, to be explored shortly: Those colors, Home brew, One more problem and yes, The Solution.

If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Mosel region of central western Germany on the border of Luxembourg. You may find a bargain, and I hope that you’ll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local white Qualitaetswein (read inexpensive) Riesling.

The Mosel Valley is felt to be one of the most beautiful river valleys in the world. This region, previously called Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in honor of its three rivers, is famous for its Riesling wine. Some of the greatest Rieslings in Germany and in fact in the entire world come from the Mosel Valley. Experts can often identify Mosel Rieslings because of the slate in the local soil, which may impart a taste of flint. The slopes are among the steepest in the wine-producing world, and sometimes attain 70 degrees. The soil is so precious that every spring local workers lug pails of soil up these steep slopes, temporarily reversing the effect of the rains that wash the soil down every winter.

Mosel ranks number five among the thirteen German wine regions when it comes to both vineyard acreage and total wine production. Slightly over three quarters of the regional wine is classified as QbA and somewhat less than one quarter is higher quality QmP wine. Only one percent is table wine. More than half of Mosel wine is Riesling. The German hybrid white grape variety Mueller-Thurgau represents about 20% of the wine production. In third place is the historic Elbing that dates back to Roman times. Only about 2% of Mosel wine is red.

The Mosel Valley pretty well stretches from Koblenz which isn’t far from Germany’s former capital Bonn to the city of Trier sitting very close to the border with Luxemburg. These two fine cities are linked by the Mosel Weinstrasse (Mosel Wine Road) which is approximately 140 miles (224 kilometers) long on the eastern side of the river and somewhat less on the western side. Of course, you could take the autobahn to travel between Koblenz and Trier at breakneck speed. If you do, you’ll miss the interesting little towns and vineyards along the way.

Cochem lies about one third of the way from Koblenz to Trier. It’s a fine little Mosel River Valley town. This medieval town is long and narrow. You should take a boat trip as well as a walking tour. Outside the town gate is the Kaiser Wilhelm railway tunnel, which at 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) is the longest in all Germany. After about a fifteen minute walk you will reach the Reichsburg (Imperial Fortress), a thousand year old castle that overlooks Cochem. The castle hosts a medieval banquet which features period costumes and music on Fridays and Saturdays but you must reserve in advance. North of the city is a larger castle, the Burg Eltz a few miles inland from the Mosel.

Before reviewing the Mosel wine and imported cheeses that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wines when touring this beautiful region. Start with Aalsuppe (Eel Soup). For your second course enjoy Rolladen (Beef rolls with Bacon and Pickles). As a dessert indulge yourself with Moselweintorte (Chocolate and Wine Cake).

OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.

Wine Reviewed Moselland Bernkasteler Kurfurstlay 2005 9.5% alcohol about $8.50

Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials. Tasting Note: Pale straw yellow colour; citrus, mineral and dried apricot aromas and flavours; balanced with crisp acidity in the finish. Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled with pork, turkey or appetizers. Spicy asian dishes.

My first pairing was with a homemade pizza with lots of tomato sauce, vegetables, and cheese but no meat. This wine displayed refreshing acidity that worked well with the pizza sauce. It had good fruit and was surprisingly long.

The next meal included a barbecued chicken marinated in a commercial Mediterranean-style light sauce, red-skinned potatoes, and a somewhat spicy Turkish salad. The wine’s acidity cut the fat very well and yet complemented the tomato’s own acidity which largely defined the salad. This little and lightly alcoholic wine (9.5% when 13% plus seems to be the new norm) was quite assertive, especially with the potatoes. And yet it was somewhat flat with dessert, some orange fruit-juice candy.

The final meal was whole-wheat pasta in a sauce that started out with your basic commercial pasta sauce. I livened it up with a fried medley of garlic, red onions, red and green peppers, topped with anchovies and shredded (local) Asiago cheese. The wine was light and fruity and the combination was quite tasty. I was happy that this Riesling was low-alcohol (and inexpensive) so that I could drink quite a bit without any negative effects, including to my pocketbook.

The initial cheese pairing was with a mild Italian Pecorino Fruilano. The wine was sweet but didn’t impress me very much. Then I tried it with a nutty Dutch Edam cheese. Once again the wine was sweet but it was round and the combination went quite well.

Final verdict. Great bargain. The wine really goes well with simple food. I didn’t get a chance to try it with gourmet specialties but wouldn’t be surprised if it did as well as many wines including Rieslings at twice the price. If I weren’t saddled with so many wines to taste (talk about problems) I’d buy half a case and drink one every two months or so. Then I’d try one from the next vintage and hope to repeat the process.

Think that you aren’t sophisticated enough or don’t fit in the right income bracket to enjoy wine-tasting? Think again. These tips will help you fake your way through a wine-tasting session – or develop a lifelong Epicurean hobby (the finest pleasures, not the most!).

Supplies – All you really need is a good wine glass, some wine, and preferably some good company.

Glasses – Obviously if you are at a wine-tasting party or tasting the wares at a winery you won’t be bringing your own glass (or wine, for that!), but when you decide that it is time to get your own wine glasses first look for a clear glass (you definitely want to be able to see the color, especially as a beginner). Your glass should curve in a bit at the top so you can swirl it without spilling. Some companies try to sell glasses that are supposedly matched to certain wine types, but taste-tests have shown that people rarely prefer wine from it’s matching glass. Instead, a good hand blown crystal glass is often preferred.

Wines – There is way too much that could be said about different varieties of wines than this article could cover. Nevertheless, we’ll try to cover some basic categories of wines and distinct varietals that you might come across. The two main types of wine are red and white. Red wines are made from black grapes fermented with skins and pips. Red wine can be dry or sweet. Some of the more well known reds are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Sangiovese. These names refer to the types of grapes which the wines are made from, and there are about 40 major types of grapes used for red wine. Wine regions have standards as to what percentage of a wine must be a single sort of grape to be classified by that grape used for its creation – in California it must be 75% while in Alsace it must be 100%. Many wines, however, are a combination of different varietals, the term which refers to a single grape wine. White wines can be made from either white or black grapes. There are over 50 major white grapes grown round the world, the three most important of which are Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. White wine is usually considered to be more refreshing than red wine. There are a number of other wine types. Pink wines include Blush types and Rose (pronounced row-zay). Blush originated in California and is usually made using Zinfandel grapes with the peels left in for a time and then removed. Rose, while in processing is actually an unfinished red, but in taste is refreshing like a white with some of the flavors of a red.

Sparkling wines and Champagne are sometimes produced by the same method, but only those made in the north of France are technically Champagne. Sparkling wines are created by adding yeast and sugar to table wine. The so called Methode Champenoise, also known as the Classic Method, is painstaking, and cheaper bubbly is usually mass-produced using a slightly different method. There are a few types of “desert wines”. Port starts a as a wine fermented from 40 or so types of grapes. The must is poured off after a short period of fermentation and then the young wine is re-barreled for a year or two before being bottled. Port usually requires 15-20 years of bottle aging and then it is a sweet, fortified wine often taken with cheese and nuts. Madeira is fortified with alcohol and then heated, either artificially or by storing in a hot attic. Originally, Madeira was created by being shipped – you know, back in the day when shipping meant in the hull of a ship – through the tropics, where it was heated. Sherry is a blended wine that is also fortified. Extra room is left in the barrel and a special yeast is addec. Fruit wines are fermented from any other fruit than grapes. Common fruits used include raspberries, blackberries, cranberries, blueberries, or cherries. Fruit wines have a monster-sized taste, partly due to the large amount of fruit used to create them. They are usually fermented in cold conditions, which helps keep the natural fruit flavors (nobody likes rotten fruit…). Fruit wines are especially good with dessert and are sometimes used in sautéing or other cooking. Other supplies.

As for the company, if you’re in the United States, make sure everyone is over 21. Laws are getting tougher on people who supply underage kids with alcohol – so even if you are a parent, if you supply a minor with alcohol, you may be held responsible if they are hurt or hurt someone else. If you are hosting a wine-tasting party, there are a some more supplies that you will need to have. Be sure to have water available for people who get thirsty. Snacks are important. Provide snacks that either compliment the wines or cleanse the palette. Snacks also help insure that people won’t become intoxicated. There are a number of different types of tasting parties, some of which will be quite expensive, but which could also be as cheap as $15 per person. If you’re going to serve dinner, wait until after the tasting session.

Tasting Technique – Some of you out there might be asking, “What technique can there be to tasting something? Put it in your mouth and taste it!” First of all, you’re right. There are some wine snobs who will say that there isn’t much point in drinking some wines, and they’ll point to rating guides saying that you should drink wine with a certain rating to cultivate your taste for fine wines… Drink wine that you like, not what other people tell you that you ought to like. Hopefully this guide will help you decide what you like. However, if you are getting into wine-tasting I am guessing that you desire to learn more about one of the finer pleasures in life – if you’re drinking to get drunk, there are faster or cheaper ways to do it than wine-tasting. That said, there are three stages to wine-tasting: Look, smell, and taste.

Look – Pour yourself a small amount of wine, perhaps an inch or so. Hold your glass up to the light or against a white background and observe the color. Red wines can be lighter or pale reds, but they also range to brownish reds. White wines are usually greenish or brownish and typically gain color with age. The tint observed at the “rim” allows expert tasters to judge the age of the wine – a purplish rim might be a younger wine while older wine usually has an orange or brown rim tint. Swirl the wine and see what sort of body the wine has. Also called the “legs”, body refers to the viscosity. A more mature wine will have more body.

Smell – Swirl the wine and hold your glass to your nose. Some tasters prefer taking on deep whiff while others will take a small whiff for the impression followed by a deeper impression. Either way, pause to get a good impression of the smell before moving on to the actual tasting stage. The aroma, also called the “nose” or “bouquet”, should remind you of things that you might smell in nature. The smell usually correlates with the taste, and wines might smell fruity, or earthy, or woody, or spicy, or any number of combination of things. Try closing your eyes and imagining yourself someplace else – perhaps in the middle of an outdoor market. What is it that this wine’s smell makes you think you might be standing near? Most good wines have a pleasant flavor in both smell and taste, though some wines – even some good ones – don’t really have a nose at all.

Taste – Take a sip and swish it round your mouth – front to back and side to side, and you might even want to breath in a bit. While your taste buds aren’t really separated out on different areas of your tongue, swishing helps you utilize all of your taste buds. The initial taste may be a bit different than the overall impression you get after swishing, and another important aspect of taste is the aftertaste. In France they even have a rating system for aftertaste – if the aftertaste lasts for 1 second, it is given 1 caudalie 2 seconds is given 2 caudalie, and so on. Highly rated wines often leave the strongest and longest aftertaste. Balance is the key to the taste of a wine. The four main components to the taste of a wine are sweetness, acidity, tannin, and alcohol content. If the wine is unbalanced in one of these areas it will be noticeable. The sweetness will probably be the first thing that you notice about the taste – especially if it is particularly sweet or particularly bitter. To think about acidity, consider the difference between drinking milk, water, orange juice, and grapefruit juice. Acidity makes the wine taste crisp, but it is overly acidic it will have a bit too much of punch. Tannin can also be a bitter sort of a flavor and it comes from stalks and skins of red grapes. Tannin is present in strong black tea and are most notable in young wines. The tannin flavor tends to mellow as wine ages. Alcohol content will make the wine range from a sweet flavor to the fire taste that accompanies higher alcohol content. Another characteristic to consider when tasting a wine are to feel the body of the wine in your mouth. Is it more or less viscous? Think about the fruitiness of the wine and try to compare different wine flavors to different fruits. What is the overall impression of the wine? Do you like it initially or not? There are times when tasters will spit out the wine that they are tasting instead of swallowing. Typically this is only done when tasting a very large number wines, or if you happen to be a professional tester or are participating in a wine review of some sort, in which case, keeping a clear and level head may be important.

Note taking – I know none of us want to go back to high school, but taking notes is beneficial to all wine-lovers, not just professional tasters. Having a collection of notes on different types of wines can help you select a good wine at a restaurant, or bring a good wine home to have when you invite the boss over for dinner. There are some particular methods of note-taking for wine-tasting, and some websites or books offer questionnaires that can be used to evaluate wines. There are special terms that some wine-tasters use, but especially at first, simply writing down things that the wine flavor or aroma remind you of might be the best that you can do. Write down your reactions to the various stages of testing – look, smell, and taste. Recording your overall impression is important – if you don’t like a wine, you can try a different one the next time. Perhaps write down some foods that you think that particular wine would be good with, and then you can check back in your notes when deciding what to serve with a particular dinner.

Wine Etiquette – There are a few things that you ought to know before serving wine, and likewise there are also a few bits of etiquette that you would do well to know before attending a wine-tasting event.

Serving wine – The right temperature for serving wine varies from wine to wine, and different people prefer different wines at different temperatures. Generally, folks prefer red wines around 65 degrees F, white or Rose wines closer to 55 degrees, and Champagne or sparkling wines are generally preferred around a chill 45 degrees F. Each variety of wine tastes a little different at different temperatures. You might want to include in your notes what temperature you taste wines at. To chill the wine, fill a bucket with ice and cover the ice with water. Submerge the bottle in the bucket. To go from room temperature to the proper temperature, put red wine in for about 5 minutes, white wine for 10 minutes, and Champagne for 15 minutes. Some people (not wine snobs, usually) even toss an ice cube or two in a glass of wine to chill it quickly. Spend a minute learning how to pop the cork properly. Don’t bend it. Pour the cork out with a about an ounce of wine to remove any debris from the cork and to check the wine out. Some folks prefer to decant the wine to remove any other particles that have settled out of the wine. Keep in mind also that it is usually recommended to allow red wines to “breathe” for an hour or so before serving. Breathing the wine for two long, however, will cause the wine to taste dull and flat When pouring, don’t touch the bottle neck to the glass and hold the bottle around the body instead of the neck. You can hold a napkin below the neck to catch dripping if you prefer. Fill the glass to no more than two-thirds full, though preferably to only about half full. If there is leftover wine and you can’t convince anyone to finish it off, you can save what wine is left, but don’t just re-cork the bottle. Find a small container – small to the point where the wine might be overflowing from it (perhaps a small, 375 mL wine bottle). In fact, when you close the container, whether with a cork or a plug or a lid of some sort, there should be a little bit of spillover. Because the main issue with saving wine is keeping it away from oxygen, doing this will prevent oxidation from happening. Store this container in the refrigerator and it should keep for about a week without becoming to stale.

Cellars Wine Club is the Best